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Gargoyles and dragons — the magnificent rocks of the Cedarberg October 8, 2008

Posted by dodo in : Africa, Map, Sightseeing, South Africa, Tour, Trails, Trip , trackback

A circular drive — almost all gravel — takes you through the rugged Cedarberg. But the section of 32 km from Wuppertal to Matjies River is a rough track suitable only for a. sturdy vehicle with a high ground clearance. Without such a vehicle this should be treated as two there-and-back day trips from Clanwilliam — as we have described it.

For the northern drive from Clanwilliam to Wuppertal, turn right at the northern end of Main Street for ‘Van‑

Rynsdorp via old main road‘, noting your kms. Keep straight past a road to Klawer on the left after 2,1 km. The tar surface ends soon after, and the road begins its gentle ascent amidst tumbled rock formations on both sides of the road — some of the rocks appearing to defy gravity by their top-heaviness.

After 16 km from Clanwilliam stop at the parking place on your left to visit the grave of Dr C Louis Leipoldt, the poet, author, journalist, physician and authority on Cape cooking. A sandy path leads for about 100m to the simple grave, which is in a rock shelter once occupied by San hunters. There are faded paintings of an elephant and calf, and of human figures, which can be seen slightly to the left of the grave as you face the shelter.

Roughly 500m further on the main road on your left is the entrance to the Rheeboksvlei picnic area (small entry fee, water, toilets). There are a number of attractive walks here — a permit may be obtained from the forester a few hundred metres further along the road.

Travel Guidebook

Continue through rugged countryside, and pass a road on your left to Elizabethsfontein. Note your kms as you reach a cement causeway, and stop 5,8 km later, just before a sign that warns of a road to the right. On your right here is the Englishman’s grave — almost entirely concealed by a large eucalyptus tree.

100m beyond the grave, turn right for the Biedou Valley and Wuppertal, noting your kms. Lonely farms in isolated valleys come unexpectedly into view as the road rises and twists. After 7,5 km the road begins the steep descent of Uitkyk (lookout) Pass. Stop after a further 100 m on the left in a parking area that offers magnificent views of smooth farmlands nestling among the craggy rocks.

The road crosses two cattle grids within the next 3 km, then crosses a low, narrow causeway. Soon after, on your left, you pass a road to the Biedou Valley and Uitspanskraal. (This side road is popular with visitors during the spring flower season.) On your right here is the farm Mertenhof, which has a homestead dating from the beginning of the previous century, and a stone-walled threshing floor that is visible from the road.

After a further 5,4 km the road crosses another narrow causeway, followed within 200m by another cattle grid. Roughly 3,6 km later, on your right, a waterfall has created a smooth rock face that seems out of character with the ruggedness of the Cedarberg.

The final steep descent to Wuppertal down Kleinhoogte begins 3,3 km later, and offers frequent glimpses of thatched and whitewashed buildings in an oasis of soft green. The road passes the old cemetery on your right just before entering the village.

After your visit to Wuppertal, retrace your route back to Clanwilliam. (The rough track that links this route to Matjiesrivier leaves the village on the south side.)

Clanwilliam to Matjiesrivier

For the southern Cedarberg drive, turn southwest at the southern end of Clanwilliam’s Main Street (opposite the old jail) onto the ‘Kaapse Weg’ (Cape road). The road surface changes to gravel after 900m. After a further 200m turn left at the Y-junction, noting your kms. (The road on your right leads to the wildflower garden, dam and caravan park.)

For several kms the road runs along the shores of the Clanwilliam Dam, offering many fine views. After 6,8 km turn right at the fork, and cross a narrow causeway immediately afterwards. Roughly 1,6 km later pull off the road at a picnic site for wide views of the dam.

Cross a concrete and iron bridge, and 4,3 km later pull off the road on your left to explore a large rock overhang and a number of smaller shelters containing old ochre hand-prints.

The gate across the road 2,3 km later opens towards you, and you leave the dam behind soon afterwards as the road passes citrus groves. At the crossroads roughly 7km later turn left, away from the river, noting your kms.

The road soon ascends the Kriedouw Kloof Pass, and an Afrikaans road sign on the left warns of a ’smal kronkelpad’ (narrow winding road). The road ascends even higher into the mountains over the Nieuwoudt Pass, offering spectacular views into remote valleys, before entering the area known as the Sederberg State Forest after 15,6 km.

After a further 400m turn left for the Algeria campsite and office (small entry fee). There are toilets, water and braai places here — and firewood is for sale. The Rondegat River offers swimming, and there are several attractive walks from the camp.

As you leave Algeria, turn left and note your kms. Pass a road on the left to the Uitkyk Forest Station at the start of the Cedarberg Pass. After 5,6km pull off the road for a fine view over the Driehoek River Valley, which stretches ahead.

The road crosses a number of causeways and cattlegrids before you reach a fork about 30 km from Algeria. Turn right for Kromrivier at the fork. The road winds down the steep mountainside to reach the entrance of the resort (small entry fee, braai places, toilets, water, swimming). Maps of the area are available here, as well as detailed directions for walks and sightseeing. Obtain a permit here for entering the Stadsaal area, and ask for instructions on how to open the locked gate there.

Return to the fork 4,4km from Kromrivier, and turn right, noting your kms. After 3,5km turn right towards the locked gate on a minor road. After passing through the gate and locking it, turn right onto a side-track about 600m beyond. Stop before the track forms a loop, to visit the excellent group of San paintings of elephants and human figures in the large rock overhang on your right.

Return to the track on which you entered the locked area, and turn right. After about 1km the road ends among the tumbled rock formations and caves of Stadsaal (city hall).

After your visit to Stadsaal, retrace your route to the main road, and after re-locking the gate turn right. Roughly 2 km later you cross a causeway. Stop on the right just beyond, where there is a shady picnic site next to the river. Nearby are the old farm buildings of Matjiesrivier, now more or less derelict, with the new homestead close by.

Retrace your route from here back to Clanwilliam. (The jeep track that leads to Wuppertal is reached by turning left at the T-junction 700m beyond the picnic site.)

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Gargoyles and dragons — the magnificent rocks of the Cedarberg

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