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Traversing Rugged Mountains and Sheltered, Bountiful Valleys October 10, 2008

Posted by dodo in : Accommodation, Cape Town, Hotels, Lodges, Rail Pass, South Africa, Tour, Trails, Trip, Wellington , trackback

A series of scenic passes over stark and rocky mountain ranges forms a natural circuit — eastwards and southwards from the orange groves of Citrusdal to the gentle orchards of the Ceres valley, then west and north through Tulbagh and the wheatfields of the fertile Swartland. All but 40km of the route is on tarred roads.

Turn east out of Citrusdal’s Voortrek‑ ker Street into Paul de Villiers Street, noting your kms. After about 3 km there are fine views back over the town. The tarred surface ends 3,5 km later, and the road passes tangled rock formations.

The road begins the winding approach to Middelberg Pass after a further 5 km. At the fork 12,4 km from Voortrekker Street, go right on the larger road. Stop roughly 3 km later for good views into an isolated valley. The road now climbs steeply through a hairpin bend to reach the summit of the mountain. From here the pass is known as Buffelshoek Pass, and there is a descending hairpin bend after a further 200m, where the road seems entirely shut in by the mountains.

In the valley below, on your right, you pass the thatched farmhouse of Tuinskloof, then cross a causeway 700 m later. Among the rock formations that you pass soon afterwards is one on your right that is said to resemble a weathercock on a steeple.

Travel Guidebook

The road crosses a cement bridge dated both 1968 and 1961, and 4 km later the road is tarred for about 600m as it climbs a steep hill.

The view changes from close mountain scenery to fields dotted with shimmering dams. Roughly 40 km from Citrusdal the road surface changes to tar. Note your kms as you pass a turn-off on your left to Boplaas, which was formerly the farm Moddervallei — birthplace of the poet Poerneef and historic home of 11 generations of Van der Merwes.

Soon afterwards you pass the turn-off on your right to the settlement of Op die Berg (on the mountain). After 23,1 km you reach the start of the easily negotiated Gydo Pass. After 3,2 km on the pass, stop on your left at a picnic site for a splendid view over the fertile Ceres valley.

The road descends the pass, then continues through Prince Alfred Hamlet. After a few more kms you reach the outskirts of Ceres. (A number of establishments in the town provide lunch.) 300m after the start of the dual carriageway in the town a caravan-and-campsite signpost to your right directs you to the Pine Forest Public Resort. (There is a small entry fee to the resort, which offers swimming, braai sites, water and toilets.)

Whether you have visited the resort or not, continue along the road on which you entered the town, and turn right at the traffic lights. After 1,4 km turn right and park at the entrance to the small Ceres Nature Reserve, where there is a delightful nature trail (allow 30-40 minutes).

Ceres to Tulbagh

Leaving the nature reserve parking area, turn right. The road immediately enters Michell’s Pass. Stop after 900m at the tarred loop of road on your left for an excellent view over the Dwars River (which becomes the Bree River after a few kms). There are picnic sites here, and on your left a waterfall tumbles down into a beautiful pool known as Koffiegat or Coffee

Pot. After a further 1,5 km on your right is the old tollhouse, built about 1850 on what was then the main road to the mining towns in the north. Beyond the pass you drive past a road on your left to Wellington and Worcester (R43), two roads to Wolseley, and the road to Gouda and Cape Town.

Tulbagh to Citrusdal

You enter Tulbagh on Van der Stel Street passing a turn-off left onto Stasieweg for Gouda and Cape Town. After visiting the town, return to Stasieweg and turn right for Cape Town and Gouda, noting your kms. Turn right 3 km later onto the R46, to enter Nuwekloof Pass 2,3 km later. After a further 4,8 km turn right onto the R44 for Porterville and Piketberg.

Continue on the R44 through rolling wheat- lands to reach Porterville’s main street after 34 km. Leave the town by continuing northwards for Citrusdal, and note your kms as you pass the turn-off for Piketberg (R44) on your left. (A gravel road on your right soon afterwards leads to the farm Cardouw — a favourite launching site for hang-gliders.)

After 30,9 km turn right at the T-junction onto the N7, noting your kms. The road now heads directly towards the mountains, and soon you can see the line of the Piekenierskloof Pass ascending ahead and to the left. Below the present road are the old retaining walls of the original pass — known as Grey’s Pass, and built by Thomas Bain in 1857. It was the first major construction task he supervised, and for almost a century was the only route over the Olifants River Mountains.

Stop on your left after 12,5 km on the N7 for outstanding views of the Swartland. Continue over the summit of the pass, and turn right for Citrusdal. (A gravel road on your right before you reach the town leads after 15 km to the hot springs.)

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