South African Travel Guide: ‘Gem of the Karoo’ in a spacious mountain setting November 6, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Accommodation, Cape Town, Europe, Hostels, Hotels, India, London, Memorial, Museum, Rail Pass, South Africa, Tickets, Tour , 3comments
Ying in a loop of the Sundays River, beneath the distinctive dome of Spandau Kop, the old town of Graaff-Reinet is progressively being restored to the glory that earned it the title ‘Gem of the Karoo’. Another title, conferred by a Cape Town newspaper last century, was ‘Athens of the Eastern Cape‘ — a reflection of the town’s reputation as a cultural centre.
The citizens of Graaff-Reinet took some time to attain this status — the town was first no more than a straggling lane of mud huts. These nevertheless constituted one of the capital cities of the world when Graaff-Reinet declared itself an independent ‘republic’ only 10 years after being established. (more…)
Across the Swartberg and through the brightly coloured Meiringspoort October 22, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Africa, Cape Town, Hotels, Map, Memorial, Money, Restaurant, South Africa, Sunblock, Travelling Bag , 2commentsThe Grootrivier (great river) sculpted the colourful Meiringspoort gorge through the barrier of the Swartberg range, and our route follows the road that now winds along the river’s banks. First, however, we cross the mountains from south to north by rneans of the soaring Swartberg Pass. Four fifths of the route is tarred, the rest is gravel.
If you are considering this drive in winter, first check with the AA in George that the Swartberg Pass has not been blocked by snow. (more…)
To the ‘magic mountain’ through the Seven Weeks Rail Pass October 22, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Africa, Cape Town, Hotels, Rail Pass, South Africa, Tour, Trails , 2commentsSouth of the Karoo plains around Laingsburg, rolling hills swell into the sandstone peaks of the Klein Swartberg range. Rivers have etched their way through the seemingly impenetrable rock, and the slow erosion has exposed contorted strata that tower high above our winding route into the Little Karoo. About half the route is tarred. (more…)
Four Passes that link together the pastoral patchwork of the Boland October 17, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Africa, Cape Town, Memorial, Museum, Rail Pass, Restaurant, South Africa, Tickets, Tour , 2commentsThe Boland mountains, long an obstruction to the pioneers, are crossed today by several easy, scenic passes. The passes overlook fertile valleys blanketed with vineyards, fields and orchards, where gracious homesteads nestle beneath craggy peaks. Our route through this region is on good tarred roads, and passes a number of attractive picnic sites.
Begin this drive at Rhodes Memorial. From here you have a view across the Cape Flats towards the distant mountains through which our route meanders. (more…)
Sightseeing through the Historic Heart of the Cape Peninsula October 15, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Africa, Beach Resorts, Cape Town, Rail Pass, Restaurant, South Africa, Tour, Travel Clinic, Trip , 2commentsThe Cape Peninsula has a rich history. Here is a short drive that allows time to savour it. Our route leads through avenues of ancient oaks, past vineyards nearly three centuries old, to several places that share a peaceful, old-world charm — from the cool of Groot Constantia’s cellars to the romance of small fishing boats in Hout Bay Harbour.
The low bridge of land between Table Mountain and Lion’s Head is known as Kloof Nek. Drive to here from the city centre by driving along Adderley Street towards the mountain, turning right at the end of Adderley Street into Wale Street, then taking the 6th left turn, into Buitengracht, which becomes Kloof Nek Road. (more…)
The ‘Land van Waveren’ and the wild beauty of Bain’s Kloof part 2 October 12, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Accommodation, Beach Resorts, Cape Town, Europe, Hotels, Rail Pass, South Africa, Tickets, Tour, Wellington , 3commentsBain’s Kloof to Cape Town
From the viewsite the road winds down the pass to Wellington. Turn right at the T-junction into Main Street. After 1,5 km turn left at the four- way stop street, and right at the T-junction onto the R44, noting your kms.
Continue straight at the intersection with the Paarl-Malmesbury road. After 12,3 km turn right for Dubanville (R312), and roughly 22 km later turn left at the T-junction.
The road enters Durbanville 5 km after this. Turn left into Main Road, and follow the signs onto the N1 for Cape Town. (more…)
The ‘Land van Waveren’ and the wild beauty of Bain’s Kloof part 1 October 12, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Africa, Cape Town, Hotels, Restaurant, Tickets, Wellington , 2commentsThis drive starts with the famous view of Table Mountain from across Table Bay, then heads north in the footsteps of early searchers for the fabled treasure of Monomotapa. The wealth they found was in the soil — rich farmlands flank our route to the ‘Land van Waveren‘ beyond the mountains. The entire route is on good tar.
Turn of the Table Bay Boulevard (N1) onto Marine Drive (R27). Drive past Milnerton, with the lagoon on your left.
Soon after passing Rietvlei on your right, turn left for Bloubergstrand, noting your kms. There are a number of parking areas along the beach- front which afford magnificent views of the sweep of the bay and Table Mountain. (more…)
A Sunburned Haven for Sea Birds and Hardy Fishermen part 2 October 10, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Africa, Air Tickets, Cape Town, Greenland, Hotels, Sightseeing, South Africa, Tour, Trails, Trip , 2commentsDwarskersbos to Cape Columbine
Return to Laaiplek, turning left out of Jameson Street into Voortrekker Street, then turn right in Velddrif to cross the Berg River bridge. 1,5 km later, turn right onto the R399 towards Vredenburg and Saldanha. After 10 km on the R399 turn right towards St Helena Bay.
The road passes close to the sea at St Helena Bay, with views of fishermen’s cottages, the harbour, and the first of a succession of fish- processing factories. A sign indicates the way to the Da Gama Monument, a few hundred metres to the right of the road. Immediately after the monument turn left onto a gravel road towards Vredenburg and Paternoster. (more…)
A Sunburned Haven for Sea Birds and Hardy Fishermen part 1 October 10, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Africa, Cape Town, Destination, Hotels, Restaurant, Round The World, South Africa, Tickets, Tour, Trails, Travel Insurance , 2commentsSaldanha Bay and Langebaan Lagoon are the focal points of this drive through some of the finest west coast scenery. From Saldanha the route leads around the lagoon to the Postberg Nature Reserve — then heads north to the historic fishing harbours that dot the coast between Laaiplek and Paternoster. Roughly half the route is tarred, the rest is good gravel. (more…)
Traversing Rugged Mountains and Sheltered, Bountiful Valleys continue… October 10, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Africa, Air Tickets, Cape Town, Destination, Europe, Hotels, Museum, South Africa, Tour, Trails, Trip, Victoria Falls , 2commentsDale of Citrus Groves
Although farms near Citrusdal have been worked for well over two centuries, the town dates only from 1916. The main road north reaches it through Piekenierskloof (pikemen’s gorge) — a name dating from 1675 when the Dutch East India Company at the Cape stationed soldiers near here to protect one of their Khoikhoi allies from attack by a rival chieftain, Gonnema. Encumbered by heavy pikes and breastplates, the Dutch soldiers pursued their foes through the mountains in vain. (more…)
Traversing Rugged Mountains and Sheltered, Bountiful Valleys October 10, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Accommodation, Cape Town, Hotels, Lodges, Rail Pass, South Africa, Tour, Trails, Trip, Wellington , 2commentsA series of scenic passes over stark and rocky mountain ranges forms a natural circuit — eastwards and southwards from the orange groves of Citrusdal to the gentle orchards of the Ceres valley, then west and north through Tulbagh and the wheatfields of the fertile Swartland. All but 40km of the route is on tarred roads.
Turn east out of Citrusdal’s Voortrek‑ ker Street into Paul de Villiers Street, noting your kms. After about 3 km there are fine views back over the town. The tarred surface ends 3,5 km later, and the road passes tangled rock formations. (more…)
The Cedarberg — a Wilderness of Sculpted Rock and Unspoilt Valleys October 8, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Africa, Cape Town, Map, Rail Pass, South Africa, Trails , 2commentsThe Cedarberg remained a little-known area for more than a century after the first European settlement was established at Cape Town — a mere 200 km away. Even today, in spite of the area’s growing popularity with lovers of the outdoors, there are many spots among the craggy mountains that are known only to forestry officers or those hardy people who have made their home here.
The dual role that the area has as home and resort is clear in the many names that fill the map of the Cedar- berg. (more…)
Quaint old roads through the land of the copper mountains October 7, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Cape Town, Hotels, Museum, Rail Pass, Tickets, Trails, Trip , 2commentsThis drive is most rewarding in the spring when the display of wildflowers is at its best, but the panoramic views over Namaqual and and the mountain passes — Spektakel Pass and the Messelpad — are memorable at any time of year. Note that two-thirds of the ‘ route is on gravel roads, and that you must take food and drink with you.
Drive north-east alongSpringbok’s Voortrekker Street and turn right towards ‘Airport/Cape Town‘, noting your kms as you turn. After 1 km turn right at the T-junction, and after a further 4,3 km turn left, noting your kms again. (more…)
Amazing South Africa Safari, following the Orange River to the ‘Place of Great Noise’ October 3, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Africa, Botswana, Cape Town, Museum, Tour, Trails , comments closedAugrabies is a place of striking contrast. In a land of little rain the surging waters of the Orange River create a ribbon of life, then thunder over one of the world’s mightiest waterfalls. This drive leads from Upington to the Augrabies Falls National Park, passing through Keimoes and Kakamas. All but a few kilometres of the route is tarred.
Our first stop of the day is Upington’s famous avenue of palms at the Eiland (island) holiday resort. To get there,
Drive south-west along Schröder Street, passing on your left the old mission complex that now houses the town’s museum. Turn left at the stop sign, noting your kms. After some 200 m you pass on your left an irrigation canal and a bakkiespomp (bucket pump).
A Thundering Waterfall in a dry, Desert Landscape continue… September 30, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Africa, Cape Town, South Africa, Tour, Trails, Travel Insurance, Trip, Victoria Falls, Zambia , 2commentsWalks and drives
From here there are a number of walks and drives that you can take to outlying viewpoints. One of the most popular walks is along the 2,5 km path leading to the Arrow Head viewsite. From here you can look out over the rapids that career along the bottom of the gorge far below. For the more energetic there is the Klipspringer Hiking Trail which runs for 26km along the southern bank of the river. This is a three-day hike and walkers stay overnight in huts along the route. The trail passes Ararat, a granite rock that offers a magnificent view along the gorge, and also Moon Rock, which provides panoramic views over the whole park. (more…)
A Thundering Waterfall in a dry, Desert Landscape September 30, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Africa, Air Tickets, Cape Town, Europe, Geographic, Round The World, Tour, Trails, Travellers Cheque, Zambia , 3commentsKnown to the wandering Khoikhoi as Aukoerebis (place of great noise), the Augrabies Falls thunder over a great granite slash in the barren bushveld of the northern Cape. Here the tumbling waters of the Orange River go mad in a series of deep ravines and dangerous, dizzying cliffs.
The first white man to see the falls was a Swedish-born soldier named Hendrik Wikar. Wikar deserted his post at the Cape in 1775 to escape an accumulation of gambling debts, and for four years he wandered through the uncharted country now known as the northern Cape describing in a journal, (more…)
Big Safari Game in the Okavango Swamp, Kalahari Desert Travel August 30, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Africa, Botswana, Cape Town, Europe, Rail Pass, Sightseeing, South Africa, Tanzania, Tickets, Tour, Trails, Travel Clinic, Travelling Bag, Trip, Vaccinations , 5commentsWe slid through the swamps while animals criss-crossed our path before and aft; kudu, zebra, buffalo, impala, and a herd of fifteen giraffe, splashing through the water with feet big as plates. Matata poled gracefully; he could have been punting down the Cam as his pole pushed blue and white water lilies aside. His ears were sharp as a jackal’s and he could spot the tracks of a hippo from an extraordinary distance. The lilypad sized footprints, at least one foot across, sank deep into the mud — heavy, purposeful tracks. (more…)
Hole in this sand continue… June 25, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Accommodation, Africa, Cairo, Cape Town, Egypt, Flight Schedule, Hotels, Round The World, The Nile, Victoria Falls , add a commentThe portion of sea deemed “safe” for bathing and surfing is marked by blue flags and an umpire’s chair. Does the immaculately-whiteclad, handsome-but-unintelligent umpire decide whether each death by drowning was fair play? He watches black frogmen emerge from the sea; soon they will haul in their golden treasure chests, spraying the worm-bubbling sand with ingots and ducats. Ah! It’s only surfboards they’re groping for. They are just the unchic relatives of those lemon, turquoise and sugar pink rubber-clad surfing super-heroes; those men who crouch, crest, lurch, then swirl in with the spent breakers and scrabble ignominiously at your feet. (more…)
