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South African Travel Guide: ‘Gem of the Karoo’ in a spacious mountain setting continued November 6, 2008

Posted by dodo in : Art Gallery, Europe, Hotels, Library, Memorial, Money, Museum, South Africa, Tour , 2comments

Reinet House is now a superb period house museum, containing some of the personal possessions of the Murrays, and many fascinating domestic items. There is also a display on the town’s Reinet dolls. These were first made during World War I when many luxury imports, including dolls, could not be obtained.

In the back yard of Reinet House there is a reconstructed water mill, which can be operated by inserting a coin, and nearby is the old Black Acorn vine planted in 1870 by Charles Murray — believed to have been the thickest in the world until dead wood was removed in 1983. (more…)

Peru Inca citadel Machu Picchu: Hitching Post of the Sun, Sun God September 22, 2008

Posted by dodo in : Cuzco, Destination, Encyclopedia, Geographic, Library, Map, Museum, Tour, Travelling Bag , 3comments

Machu Picchu was an Inca citadel, located a little over 60 miles (97km) ….. north of Cuzco. Its ruins occupy a topographical saddle about 8,000 feet (2,400km) up in the Andes between the peaks of Machu (old) Picchu and Huayna (new) Picchu. It is a complex of cultivation terraces, stone houses, temples, plazas and residential compounds clinging to the ridge, on three sides of which are vertiginous drops, overhanging the gorge of the Urubamba River about 2,000 feet (600m) below. The city was discovered in 1911 by Hiram Bingham of Yale University, whose reports and photographs captured the public imagination. (more…)

London Sightseeing Pass: Westminster Palace and Abbey & St Margaret’s Church continue… August 25, 2008

Posted by dodo in : Air Tickets, Cars, Destination, Ireland, Library, London, Museum, Rail Pass, Scotland, Sightseeing, Tickets, Tour, Trip, Wellington , 5comments

A cult developed around Edward. There were accounts of him healing the sick while he was alive, and rumours of cures at his tomb continued. In 1102 it was opened and his body found incorrupt. After a campaign lasting for decades, Edward the Confessor was canonized in 1161. His body was raised from the tomb before the high altar and replaced in a richly ornamented shrine, the key, sacred focal point of the Abbey. (more…)

France World Heritage Chartres Cathedral part 3 August 11, 2008

Posted by dodo in : Air Tickets, Europe, Hotels, Jerusalem, Library, Museum, Oceanarium, Rail Pass, Restaurant, Sightseeing, Tickets, Tour , 3comments

It was called ‘La Lieue’, The League, although the length of its path isconsiderably shorter than a league (6,850 feet/ 2,088m) at approximately 450 feet (140m). It is believed that the Christian usage of such designs was as penance paths, and there are hints in names for Christian labyrinths that suggest their perambulation could be used in lieu of a physical pilgrimage to Jerusalem. But they are also cosmographic images, and this is indicated by the Chartres design. (more…)

Egypt Ancient Thebes & its Necropolis August 3, 2008

Posted by dodo in : Air Tickets, Cairo, Destination, Egypt, Hotels, Library, Memorial, Museum, The Nile , 5comments

Thebes is the Greek name given to what was an ancient capital of Egypt, now most simply identified as Luxor, on the east side of the Nile about 370 miles (600km) south of Cairo. On the opposite side of the river is the great necropolis that includes the famed Valley of the Kings. (more…)

The Sky Burial July 29, 2008

Posted by dodo in : Destination, Library, Memorial, Museum, Restaurant, Tour , 6comments

Six AM. I wake before the alarm, filled with apprehension. I had resisted attending the sky burial. However, I know that experiencing such a unique, ancient ritual is the essence of travelling. If I avoid it, I might as well be on a tourist bus, shielded from Tibet and from myself.

Pascal, Doune and I begin the hour-long walk out of L’hassa. We pick our way through a rubbish dump and climb to the burial site, a stubbly patch on top of a rocky hill, surrounded by desolate bare mountains, looking like wrinkled old elephants’ hide. Five Tibetan men and a boy of about ten, dressed in worn jackets and trousers, are seated around a fire, drinking tea, talking and laughing. (more…)

A Fair Show, happy Travelers Diaries July 6, 2008

Posted by dodo in : Accommodation, Aquarium, Cars, Cash, China, Destination, Dolphinarium, Ireland, Library, Museum, Restaurant, Round The World, Tour , 3comments

Through Leinster and Munster, along Connaught lanes and highways there’s a movement. Brazenly on verges, tucked behind hedges, parked in laybys there are caravans. Not tourists but the homes of the Irish Travellers, the Tinkers. Herds of their horses hold up the traffic. Greys, chestnuts, roans, bays and the especial pride, the batty mares: great coloured, patched horses, piebald and skewbald, hooves swathed in shaggy hair. They’re all heading along roads which lead to the nub, the October fair, Ballinasloe. A convergence for horses and horsemanship, dealing and drinking, exchanging news and the “crack”. “You’ll never see as many horses together as you will at Ballinasloe. Once Seamus McGinty rode down the high street at the head of sixty, his sons as outriders flanking their wealth.” (more…)

Villages, Boats, Boulevards, Bars, Break in France and Italy, Aegean Tour continue… July 4, 2008

Posted by dodo in : Accommodation, Africa, Aquarium, Art Gallery, Beach Resorts, Cars, Coliseum, Destination, Dolphinarium, Europe, France, Hotels, Library, Motel, Museum, New York, Oceanarium, Planetarium, Restaurant , 3comments

Fabienne wakes us. She is pretty in a New York Jewish sort of way — cracked nose, olive skin, beautiful drooping eyes with lot’s of kohl, smoker’s teeth and bitten nails. Wrapped in a peasant blanket she talks of “le business” in Soho and Piccadilly — prostitution to pay for her drug addiction. Her arms are scars, dead veins with hanging skin which will take no more abuse, and so her ankles have become the focal point of her masochism. Corsica is vacation after hospitalisation in Amsterdam and, more importantly from her point of view, stamping ground of many Moroccans who come from the hash crops of North Africa to supply France from this paradise isle. (more…)

Climbing, Riding, Sightseeing Midnight on Mont Blanc July 2, 2008

Posted by dodo in : Accommodation, Air Tickets, Cars, Coliseum, Destination, Gymnasium, Hotels, Library, Motel, Museum, Restaurant, Round The World , 3comments

Depression lurked over me like a Lakeland storm-sky: oppressive, inevitable and apparently unending. “What you need,” said Bernie over the top of his beer, “is to take your mind off it; get out onto the hill. Let’s go and climb Mont Blanc. We can drive down on your bike.”

The suggestion seemed suitably absurd — neither of us had done any serious climbing for a decade and I had never done any work on snow and ice. So we went. Friends took the heavy gear in a car. (I had failed to accommodate two full sets of climbing equipment, a tent, books and spare clothes in the panniers of my new BMW and felt slightly cheated.) On the open roads, the apparently deserted French péages, I relished the lack of baggage and flew south. (more…)

Naked Amongst the Guzerat continue… June 26, 2008

Posted by dodo in : Art Gallery, Caracas, Europe, Hotels, Library, Memorial, Museum, Restaurant, Round The World, USA , add a comment

I had fallen for the young champion Brahman bull, which always greeted me fluttering endless black eyelashes. I had seen him give sperm for freezing, so I suppose we were on rather intimate terms. “Juan has gone over to the electric ejaculator,” Lina announced coquettishly. For reasons of economic progress, Juan had been advised to limit the natural servicing methods of breeding and adapt to artificial insemination. Little realising that I was to witness a ceremony normally forbidden to women, and which few foreigners see, I accepted an invitation to watch my beautiful champ perform. The animal was roped and harnessed within a secure pen. Hector’s arm then disappeared to the elbow to clear the animal’s rectum of faecal residue. Into it he inserted a metal objected shaped like a toy submarine which was attached to an instrument-box by two long wires. (more…)

My Perugia Travel Diary continue… June 19, 2008

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Mass cremation pits containing ashes and charred bones indicate that he feared a plague, but Carthaginian skeletons with all their teeth have been disinterred as well as the tombs, yielding cataphracts as well as bones, of thirty Carthaginian nobles.

Spello, the most appealing of the Umbrian hill towns, is still enclosed by Roman walls with five gates, the main one bearing the legend “Splendidissima Colonic Julia Hispellum” over the arch. According to Spellan tradition, a phallus carved in the inner wall of the Porta Urbica does not celebrate Orlando’s (Roland’s) amatory prowess but the range and perfect arc of his actus mingendi. Spello is noted for its restaurants and truffled cooking, its steep, winding, and narrow streets—all one-way only—its Roman towers and amphitheater. A Vocabolaro del Dialetto Spellano, compiled by NicolettaUgoccioni and published here last year, contains, at a thumb-through guess, 20,000 words in current usage—by a population of only 6,800. (more…)

Pleasant hollow QUELUZ continue… June 15, 2008

Posted by dodo in : Aquarium, Art Gallery, Coliseum, Dolphinarium, Gymnasium, Library, Lisbon, London, Museum, Oceanarium, Planetarium, Portugal, Restaurant, USA , add a comment

The interior of the palace (which was partially destroyed by fire in 1934 but felicitously restored) is entered from the cour d’honneur. The cheerful lightness of first room, a corridor known as the Sala das Mangas, derives from its wall-to-ceiling revetment in blue and yellow azulejos, the characteristic Portuguese decorative tiles. A key position in the palace is occupied by the ceremonial reception room, the Hall of the Ambassadors. This room is also called the Hall of Mirrors, for most of the wall space not occupied by the window embrasures is filled with mirrors in gilt Rococo frames. The coved ceiling is decorated with a large painting, in which members of the royal family are depicted behind a balustrade as if watching one of the evening concerts for which Queluz was famous. (more…)

Ambitious attempt: CASERTA continue… June 15, 2008

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Immediately opposite the Great Staircase to the west stands the chapel, which, at the king’s request, repeats the scheme of its counterpart at Versailles. Although Caserta evokes Versailles in concept and ambition, this is the only part of the palace that directly imitates its French predecessor. As at Versailles, the main theme is stated on the gallery level, where coupled Corinthian columns march in stately procession towards the apse. But despite this common feature, the characteristically French ambulatory has been omitted and the proportions of the whole have been to some extent lowered.

The central peristyle also leads to the royal apartments that occupy the south front and the short wing leading to it. (more…)

The palace of Nymphenburg continue… June 7, 2008

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In 1716 Effner began the first of the four Rococo pavilions in the garden. This was the Pagodenburg, a product of the craze for chinoiserie that was beginning to sweep Western Europe. This little building has an interesting plan, which can be described either as an octagon with projections at four of the eight sides or as a Greek cross with the corners bevelled off. The exterior has an entirely French appearance and it is only inside that the Chinese theme is introduced. On the ground storey, the principal feature is provided by the blue Delft tiles in glazed earthenware, which the elector may have learned to appreciate during his stay in the Low Countries, though they are undoubtedly a cheaper substitute for Chinese porcelain. The upper of the two storeys has two pentagonal cabinets with lacquer panelling and furniture made by Parisian craftsmen in the chinoiserie manner. In the lounge, however, the purely European Régence again takes over in the fine wall carvings and silk brocade. (more…)

The relentless uniformity of the bays of the south facade of the Escorial continue… June 3, 2008

Posted by dodo in : Austria, Europe, Library, USA , add a comment

The church itself is a central-plan building focusing on four great piers that support a hemispherical crossing dome. The general scheme of the interior follows the example of St Peter’s in Rome, but the architect has transposed the details into a solemnly majestic key, his personal interpretation of the Doric order. The enormous scale, the relative absence of ornament and the unrelenting austerity of the granite surfaces produce an awesome, almost suffocating effect. Fortunately this tension is relieved by the presence of a number of outstanding works of art, which act as aesthetic oases, so to speak. The east wall is entirely filled by a great retable designed by Giacomo Trezzo of Milan, incorporating paintings by Pellegrino Tibaldi and Federico Zuccaro and sculpture by Leone and Pompeo Leoni. (more…)

Split: the east coast of the Adriatic continue… May 30, 2008

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Instead of extending as far as the gallery overlooking the sea, the arcaded or southern arm of the north–south street stopped short at an arched lintel or fastigium. This archway provided a kind of canopy for the emperor’s appearances. The richly coloured columns of this part of the palace were imported from Egypt, where they had been looted from existing buildings. (The fastigium motif recurred no less than three times on the seaward side, as an expression of the palace’s exalted status.) To the east of the fastigium is a small precinct containing the most important building of the whole complex—the mausoleum erected by Diocletian as his own final resting-place. (more…)

Split: the east coast of the Adriatic May 30, 2008

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The Yugoslav town of Split, or Spalato, lies on the east coast of the Adriatic, the much-travelled sea route linking Venice and Central Europe with the more ancient civilisations of the eastern Mediterranean. Here, in the first years of the fourth century, the Roman emperor Diocletian built himself an imposing palace, which, of all his many achievements, is perhaps the clearest reflection of the effect on his personality of his unceasing efforts to reorganise the scattered and rebellious Empire.

The future emperor was born about 245 as simple Diodes, the son of a poor Illyrian farm-hand. On joining the army, he served under a number of soldier-emperors from his own native province of Illyria, which corresponds roughly to modern Yugoslavia. (more…)

Malmaison: the Favourite country residence of Napoleon and Josephine continue… May 22, 2008

Posted by dodo in : Accommodation, Destination, England, France, Library, Museum, Paris, Turkey , add a comment

It soon became obvious that the château was too small. Percier and Fontaine added on two wings and pulled down the dividing walls in order to enlarge the drawing rooms. In doing so they practically caused the main structure to collapse and had to reinforce it with massive pilasters which still today look somewhat incongruous. The interior was decorated with care in the taste of the day. The walls were hung with both antique and modern pictures. Two red marble obelisks adorned one of the doorways; they came originally from the Château de Rueil, once the residence of Cardinal de Richelieu but now nonexistent. Berthault built follies in the shade of the trees; a Gothic aviary, a temple of love, sphinxes were dotted about the groves and the banks of the stream. (more…)

Fontainebleau: A hunting lodge which saw four centuries of French history May 21, 2008

Posted by dodo in : England, Italy, Library, Museum, Paris, USA , add a comment

The huge and magnificent forest, the fresh water springs, its proximity to Paris, and its convenience as a halting place between the capital and the Loire valley, all pointed to Fontainebleau as the ideal site for the residence of a dynasty of kings passionately fond of hunting and obliged to make constant journeys round their domains.

Already in the twelfth century Louis VI, le Gros, built a dungeon there ; then Louis VII erected a chapel which is believed to have been consecrated by Thomas a Becket as he fled from the wrath of his master, Henry II of England ; St Louis founded a monastery to which Charles V, le Sage, added a `library‘, and this group of buildings encircles the Cour Ovale. (more…)

Charlottenburg: The interior is a superb example of German decorative art May 19, 2008

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The relation of Schloss Charlottenburg to the now vanished Berlin Schloss and to Potsdam, is rather like that of the lost Whitehall Palace to Kensington and, say, Hampton Court. The Berlin Schloss with its Schluter decorations was wantonly removed after the last war to make way for the Marx-Engels Platz in East Berlin ; in Potsdam the Neues Palais and the Cornmuns survive more or less intact, the Stadt Schloss and the Garnison church are ruined, while Sans Souci appears virtually as it ever did. Sans Souci was the idea and creation of a single monarch between 1745 and 1753. Charlottenburg has a longer history over a much greater span of years and indeed it might be said that its story still continues. From the Berlin Schloss down Unter den Linden through the Brandenburg Gate, the road runs straight along the Charlottenburger Chaussee past the Rondel of the Siegessaule to a fork at what is now the Ernst Reuterplatz where the proud cupola of Schloss Charlottenburg rises on the right at a distance of about eight kilometres in all. (more…)

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