South African Travel Guide: ‘Gem of the Karoo’ in a spacious mountain setting continued November 6, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Art Gallery, Europe, Hotels, Library, Memorial, Money, Museum, South Africa, Tour , 2commentsReinet House is now a superb period house museum, containing some of the personal possessions of the Murrays, and many fascinating domestic items. There is also a display on the town’s Reinet dolls. These were first made during World War I when many luxury imports, including dolls, could not be obtained.
In the back yard of Reinet House there is a reconstructed water mill, which can be operated by inserting a coin, and nearby is the old Black Acorn vine planted in 1870 by Charles Murray — believed to have been the thickest in the world until dead wood was removed in 1983. (more…)
South African Travel Guide: ‘Gem of the Karoo’ in a spacious mountain setting November 6, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Accommodation, Cape Town, Europe, Hostels, Hotels, India, London, Memorial, Museum, Rail Pass, South Africa, Tickets, Tour , 3comments
Ying in a loop of the Sundays River, beneath the distinctive dome of Spandau Kop, the old town of Graaff-Reinet is progressively being restored to the glory that earned it the title ‘Gem of the Karoo’. Another title, conferred by a Cape Town newspaper last century, was ‘Athens of the Eastern Cape‘ — a reflection of the town’s reputation as a cultural centre.
The citizens of Graaff-Reinet took some time to attain this status — the town was first no more than a straggling lane of mud huts. These nevertheless constituted one of the capital cities of the world when Graaff-Reinet declared itself an independent ‘republic’ only 10 years after being established. (more…)
Across the Swartberg and through the brightly coloured Meiringspoort October 22, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Africa, Cape Town, Hotels, Map, Memorial, Money, Restaurant, South Africa, Sunblock, Travelling Bag , 2commentsThe Grootrivier (great river) sculpted the colourful Meiringspoort gorge through the barrier of the Swartberg range, and our route follows the road that now winds along the river’s banks. First, however, we cross the mountains from south to north by rneans of the soaring Swartberg Pass. Four fifths of the route is tarred, the rest is gravel.
If you are considering this drive in winter, first check with the AA in George that the Swartberg Pass has not been blocked by snow. (more…)
The Strandveld Holiday— exploring the southernmost Shores of Africa October 17, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Africa, Hotels, Memorial, Museum, Tickets , 2commentsLying at the southernmost tip of Africa, the Strandveld is an isolated land of sun- bleached sand dunes and beautiful bays. Popular holiday resorts now dot a coastline feared by generations of sailors and littered by countless shipwrecks. About two-thirds of this route is on tar and the remainder is on good gravel.
The western end of Hermanus, turn inland from Main Road into Rotary Way, and follow this scenic mountain drive for some 3,7km to the point where it forks. Park near the benches on the right, from where there is a fine view over the town and the full sweep of the Walker Bay coastline. (more…)
Four Passes that link together the pastoral patchwork of the Boland October 17, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Africa, Cape Town, Memorial, Museum, Rail Pass, Restaurant, South Africa, Tickets, Tour , 2commentsThe Boland mountains, long an obstruction to the pioneers, are crossed today by several easy, scenic passes. The passes overlook fertile valleys blanketed with vineyards, fields and orchards, where gracious homesteads nestle beneath craggy peaks. Our route through this region is on good tarred roads, and passes a number of attractive picnic sites.
Begin this drive at Rhodes Memorial. From here you have a view across the Cape Flats towards the distant mountains through which our route meanders. (more…)
Touring Paradise, St George’s Street — ‘memory mile’ of a Naval Town part 1 October 15, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Hotels, Memorial, Museum, Rail Pass, Restaurant, South Africa, Tickets, Tour, Trails, Trip , 2commentsThe buildings that rise in steep terraces above Simon’s Bay look down on a harbour that sheltered square-rigged warships with muzzle-loader guns, and today protects the deadly submarines of the South African Navy.
Between the houses and the sea runs Simon’s Town’s St George’s Street — a thoroughfare that has echoed to the tramp of marching feet for many generations. Countless sailors from throughout the world have a memory-filled corner of their hearts reserved for what is known today as ‘the historic mile’ — the central section of St George’s Street. (more…)
Cahokia Mounds, the Late Woodland Culture continue… September 28, 2008
Posted by dodo in : America, Central America, Destination, Hotels, Map, Memorial, North America, Sightseeing, Tour, USA , 2commentsMound 72 is most interesting, even though today it seems a fairly insignificant ridge of earth. Excavations revealed that at the precise point where the meridional line passes through the end of the mound, a huge pole — about three feet (1m) in diameter — had been erected. Radiocarbon dating of material in the eight-foot (2.4m) deep pole (the pole had clearly been very tall) gave a date of AD 950 for the time when the pole was placed in the ground. The excavations also showed that the mound had been constructed from a series of earlier submounds that were then reshaped and covered over to give the long ridge form. (more…)
Avebury Village & Related Megalithic Sites: Remarkable Monument, Ceremonial Landscape part 2 August 12, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Destination, Europe, London, Memorial, Rail Pass, Sightseeing, Tickets, Tour, Travelling Bag, United Kingdom , 2commentsThe whole was covered with soil, each step of the chalk cone being filled and smoothed into the overall profile of the hill except the top one, which was left as a terrace or ledge running about 17 feet (5m) below the flat summit. Today this terrace is clearly visible on the eastern side of the mound, although the western part of the circuit is less distinct. Whether this was deliberate, or due to erosion by the prevailing southwest winds, is unclear. But the segment of the hill between terrace and summit is significant, as we shall see. (more…)
Avebury Village & Related Megalithic Sites: Remarkable Monument, Ceremonial Landscape August 12, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Accommodation, Airlines, Destination, Europe, Hotels, Memorial, Sightseeing, Tickets, Tour, Trails, Trip, United Kingdom , 3commentsThe two great henge mountains of Stonehenge and Avebury are only about 20 miles (32km) apart in Wiltshire, yet each has its own surrounding ceremonial landscape containing many other monuments. All are entered as site number 96 on the World Heritage List, but here we will describe each of these major monuments and landscapes in turn. (more…)
Egypt Ancient Thebes & its Necropolis continue… August 3, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Accommodation, Egypt, Flight Schedule, Memorial, Museum, Restaurant, The Nile, Tour, Trip , 6commentsHawkins crossed the Nile to the necropolis. This complex of mortuary temples and tombs hewn out of the living rock served many periods of ancient Egypt and covers a large area. The whole landscape is dominated by a remarkably regular pyramidical mountain. Atop it are the remains of a prehistoric mound, predating dynastic Egypt. It is difficult for a geomantic researcher not to consider that the shape of this peak was an important factor determining the Egyptians’ initial choice of this area as a major necropolis. (more…)
Egypt Ancient Thebes & its Necropolis August 3, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Air Tickets, Cairo, Destination, Egypt, Hotels, Library, Memorial, Museum, The Nile , 5commentsThebes is the Greek name given to what was an ancient capital of Egypt, now most simply identified as Luxor, on the east side of the Nile about 370 miles (600km) south of Cairo. On the opposite side of the river is the great necropolis that includes the famed Valley of the Kings. (more…)
The Sky Burial July 29, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Destination, Library, Memorial, Museum, Restaurant, Tour , 6commentsSix AM. I wake before the alarm, filled with apprehension. I had resisted attending the sky burial. However, I know that experiencing such a unique, ancient ritual is the essence of travelling. If I avoid it, I might as well be on a tourist bus, shielded from Tibet and from myself.
Pascal, Doune and I begin the hour-long walk out of L’hassa. We pick our way through a rubbish dump and climb to the burial site, a stubbly patch on top of a rocky hill, surrounded by desolate bare mountains, looking like wrinkled old elephants’ hide. Five Tibetan men and a boy of about ten, dressed in worn jackets and trousers, are seated around a fire, drinking tea, talking and laughing. (more…)
Climbing, Riding, Sightseeing Midnight on Mont Blanc continue… July 2, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Accommodation, Air Tickets, Cars, Europe, Germany, Greece, Hostels, London, Memorial, Mexico, Motel, New York, Travel Insurance, Travelling Bag, USA , 3commentsBernie pulled on the rope and cursed me for stopping; I plodded on. My feet hurt.
Four days later, the train heaved its way out of the valley towards the end of the Bionnassay Glacier. Through the glass I stared at the pine trees and the brilliant meadow flowers. The carriage filled with the perfume of tourists, up for the day, and the sweat of climbers, rucksacks balanced on their knees, all heading for the Blanc. When the track wound alongside a cliff the small girl sitting opposite looked out in disbelief as the trees gave way to nothing. She pulled her eyes away in fear and looked around the train — the view there was worse, rucksacks, hairy knees, ice-axes, unshaven climbers lost in contemplation of the weather.
We arrived at the top station and the train disgorged. Tourists wandered slowly across to the cafe or to the viewing platform from which they could look up at the great bleak sweep of the mountain opposite. Down the valley the world became more sane, as the stone desert below the glacier gave way to meadows and woodland. (more…)
Travel, Hiking, Sightseeing; one day holiday away along the Golden Road June 29, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Asia, Hotels, Kazakhstan, London, Memorial, Scotland , add a commentIt was only on the way to Samarkand, the real pearl of ancient Central Asia (now the pearl of the Soviet Socialist Republic of Uzbekistan). But the memories of that day in little Bukhara are more vivid, more persistent, and looking back I think I understand why, through the centuries, merchants and pilgrims and assorted adventurers, guided by nothing but the stars, were prepared to brave the Red Sand Desert, the Celestial Mountains, the look-outs on the Tower of Death and very likely the Black Pit of vipers and vermin for a look at the fabulous, forbidden town.
They say that only two Christians defiled Bukhara with their infidel gaze in the 400 years before 1840. That was the year Captain Connolly of the Bengal Light Cavalry crawled out of the pit with his flesh in tatters, to have his head cut off in the ceremonial courtyard for his pains. (more…)
Naked Amongst the Guzerat continue… June 26, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Art Gallery, Caracas, Europe, Hotels, Library, Memorial, Museum, Restaurant, Round The World, USA , add a commentI had fallen for the young champion Brahman bull, which always greeted me fluttering endless black eyelashes. I had seen him give sperm for freezing, so I suppose we were on rather intimate terms. “Juan has gone over to the electric ejaculator,” Lina announced coquettishly. For reasons of economic progress, Juan had been advised to limit the natural servicing methods of breeding and adapt to artificial insemination. Little realising that I was to witness a ceremony normally forbidden to women, and which few foreigners see, I accepted an invitation to watch my beautiful champ perform. The animal was roped and harnessed within a secure pen. Hector’s arm then disappeared to the elbow to clear the animal’s rectum of faecal residue. Into it he inserted a metal objected shaped like a toy submarine which was attached to an instrument-box by two long wires. (more…)
My Perugia Travel Diary continue… June 19, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Aquarium, Art Gallery, Asia, China, Coliseum, Denmark, Destination, Dolphinarium, Egypt, England, Europe, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Greenland, Gymnasium, Iceland, Istanbul, Italy, Library, Memorial, Morocco, Museum, Norway, Oceanarium, Paris, Planetarium, Poland, Restaurant, Round The World, The Nile , add a commentMass cremation pits containing ashes and charred bones indicate that he feared a plague, but Carthaginian skeletons with all their teeth have been disinterred as well as the tombs, yielding cataphracts as well as bones, of thirty Carthaginian nobles.
Spello, the most appealing of the Umbrian hill towns, is still enclosed by Roman walls with five gates, the main one bearing the legend “Splendidissima Colonic Julia Hispellum” over the arch. According to Spellan tradition, a phallus carved in the inner wall of the Porta Urbica does not celebrate Orlando’s (Roland’s) amatory prowess but the range and perfect arc of his actus mingendi. Spello is noted for its restaurants and truffled cooking, its steep, winding, and narrow streets—all one-way only—its Roman towers and amphitheater. A Vocabolaro del Dialetto Spellano, compiled by NicolettaUgoccioni and published here last year, contains, at a thumb-through guess, 20,000 words in current usage—by a population of only 6,800. (more…)
Holyroodhouse: The most romantic of all the palaces in the British Isles continue… May 25, 2008
Posted by dodo in : London, Memorial, Paris, Scotland , add a commentAs we see it today the palace dates almost entirely from this rebuilding. Its three many-windowed storeys divided by groups of flattened pilasters, Doric and Ionic for the first two storeys, and finally Corinthian, and topped by a shallow mansard with batteries of tall chimneys, would have passed unnoticed on the Continent, but to Scottish eyes must have seemed a great innovation. Levau had done similar things a decade earlier at the Louvre, and Wren and Talman were to follow suit fifteen years later, but here, for the first time, one can see a significant architectural result of the long Franco-Scottish alliance. (more…)
Windsor Castle: A fortress gradually converted into the residence of Kings continue… May 24, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Accommodation, Europe, France, London, Memorial, Museum, Round The World , add a commentCharles II, who had spent much of his youth in France, had plans to rival the splendour of Versailles at Windsor and built a complete new range of state apartments on the north terrace. The building was severely classical in style and entirely plain except for a huge Garter Star, but if the outside was austere, the interior was lavish in decoration with a mass of exuberant woodcarvings by Grinling Gibbons and Philipps, and twenty vast’ painted ceilings by Verrio of which only three now survive. In addition to this, Charles constructed a grand avenue stretching away to the south of the castle for three miles. (more…)
Charlottenburg: The interior is a superb example of German decorative art May 19, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Accommodation, Air Tickets, Airlines, Aquarium, Art Gallery, Beach Resorts, Coliseum, Destination, Dolphinarium, Flight Schedule, Gymnasium, Hotels, Library, Memorial, Museum, Oceanarium, Paris, Planetarium, Restaurant, USA , add a commentThe relation of Schloss Charlottenburg to the now vanished Berlin Schloss and to Potsdam, is rather like that of the lost Whitehall Palace to Kensington and, say, Hampton Court. The Berlin Schloss with its Schluter decorations was wantonly removed after the last war to make way for the Marx-Engels Platz in East Berlin ; in Potsdam the Neues Palais and the Cornmuns survive more or less intact, the Stadt Schloss and the Garnison church are ruined, while Sans Souci appears virtually as it ever did. Sans Souci was the idea and creation of a single monarch between 1745 and 1753. Charlottenburg has a longer history over a much greater span of years and indeed it might be said that its story still continues. From the Berlin Schloss down Unter den Linden through the Brandenburg Gate, the road runs straight along the Charlottenburger Chaussee past the Rondel of the Siegessaule to a fork at what is now the Ernst Reuterplatz where the proud cupola of Schloss Charlottenburg rises on the right at a distance of about eight kilometres in all. (more…)
Linderhof: Ludwing IP’s flamboyant fantasy in the neo-baroque manner continue… May 19, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Accommodation, Air Tickets, Airlines, Aquarium, Art Gallery, Cars, Coliseum, Destination, Dolphinarium, Flight Schedule, Gymnasium, Hotels, Library, Memorial, Museum, Oceanarium, Paris, Restaurant, USA , add a commentIn one respect Ludwig out-Heroded Herod. No Bourbon edifice has ever had a site as dramatically effective. Use has been made of two sides and the narrow floor of a valley-opening, fringed by forest and rockface, as a multiple-terraced arrangement of flower beds and fountains which, however formal, is yet acceptable in this remote spot. Karl von Effner was the designer of the grounds, but he followed detailed directions of the king. Linderhof faces the slope of the Linderbichl to the south. There is just room at the back, on the steep slope of the Hennenkopf, for a cascade of thirty-two marble steps with a Neptune fountain at their foot and a trellised rotunda at the top, corresponding to the rotunda in the south garden. On either side of the palace is a formalised parterre, divided into four sections and with a border of trimmed hornbeams. The south garden is the really dramatic one, rising in three terraces from the large basin immediately in front of and below the palace. (more…)
