Across the Swartberg and through the brightly coloured Meiringspoort October 22, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Africa, Cape Town, Hotels, Map, Memorial, Money, Restaurant, South Africa, Sunblock, Travelling Bag , 6commentsThe Grootrivier (great river) sculpted the colourful Meiringspoort gorge through the barrier of the Swartberg range, and our route follows the road that now winds along the river’s banks. First, however, we cross the mountains from south to north by rneans of the soaring Swartberg Pass. Four fifths of the route is tarred, the rest is gravel.
If you are considering this drive in winter, first check with the AA in George that the Swartberg Pass has not been blocked by snow. (more…)
Four Passes that link together the pastoral patchwork of the Boland October 17, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Africa, Cape Town, Memorial, Museum, Rail Pass, Restaurant, South Africa, Tickets, Tour , 5commentsThe Boland mountains, long an obstruction to the pioneers, are crossed today by several easy, scenic passes. The passes overlook fertile valleys blanketed with vineyards, fields and orchards, where gracious homesteads nestle beneath craggy peaks. Our route through this region is on good tarred roads, and passes a number of attractive picnic sites.
Begin this drive at Rhodes Memorial. From here you have a view across the Cape Flats towards the distant mountains through which our route meanders. (more…)
Sightseeing through the Historic Heart of the Cape Peninsula October 15, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Africa, Beach Resorts, Cape Town, Rail Pass, Restaurant, South Africa, Tour, Travel Clinic, Trip , 6commentsThe Cape Peninsula has a rich history. Here is a short drive that allows time to savour it. Our route leads through avenues of ancient oaks, past vineyards nearly three centuries old, to several places that share a peaceful, old-world charm — from the cool of Groot Constantia’s cellars to the romance of small fishing boats in Hout Bay Harbour.
The low bridge of land between Table Mountain and Lion’s Head is known as Kloof Nek. Drive to here from the city centre by driving along Adderley Street towards the mountain, turning right at the end of Adderley Street into Wale Street, then taking the 6th left turn, into Buitengracht, which becomes Kloof Nek Road. (more…)
Touring Paradise, St George’s Street — ‘memory mile’ of a Naval Town part 1 October 15, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Hotels, Memorial, Museum, Rail Pass, Restaurant, South Africa, Tickets, Tour, Trails, Trip , 6commentsThe buildings that rise in steep terraces above Simon’s Bay look down on a harbour that sheltered square-rigged warships with muzzle-loader guns, and today protects the deadly submarines of the South African Navy.
Between the houses and the sea runs Simon’s Town’s St George’s Street — a thoroughfare that has echoed to the tramp of marching feet for many generations. Countless sailors from throughout the world have a memory-filled corner of their hearts reserved for what is known today as ‘the historic mile’ — the central section of St George’s Street. (more…)
The ‘Land van Waveren’ and the wild beauty of Bain’s Kloof part 1 October 12, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Africa, Cape Town, Hotels, Restaurant, Tickets, Wellington , 4commentsThis drive starts with the famous view of Table Mountain from across Table Bay, then heads north in the footsteps of early searchers for the fabled treasure of Monomotapa. The wealth they found was in the soil — rich farmlands flank our route to the ‘Land van Waveren‘ beyond the mountains. The entire route is on good tar.
Turn of the Table Bay Boulevard (N1) onto Marine Drive (R27). Drive past Milnerton, with the lagoon on your left.
Soon after passing Rietvlei on your right, turn left for Bloubergstrand, noting your kms. There are a number of parking areas along the beach- front which afford magnificent views of the sweep of the bay and Table Mountain. (more…)
A Sunburned Haven for Sea Birds and Hardy Fishermen part 1 October 10, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Africa, Cape Town, Destination, Hotels, Restaurant, Round The World, South Africa, Tickets, Tour, Trails, Travel Insurance , 6commentsSaldanha Bay and Langebaan Lagoon are the focal points of this drive through some of the finest west coast scenery. From Saldanha the route leads around the lagoon to the Postberg Nature Reserve — then heads north to the historic fishing harbours that dot the coast between Laaiplek and Paternoster. Roughly half the route is tarred, the rest is good gravel. (more…)
Amazing South Africa Safari, following the Orange River to the ‘Place of Great Noise’ continue… October 3, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Africa, Map, Rail Pass, Restaurant, South Africa, Tickets, Tour, Trails, Trip , 6commentsAugrabies Falls National Park
Close to the entrance there is an information centre where you can obtain a free booklet on the park. There is also a shop that sells a few tinned goods, firewood, refreshments, wine and beer — and petrol can be obtained.
There is a restaurant next to the shop, and picnic places nearby — set among trees along one of the river’s channels. There are braai sites here, with water and toilets. (No drinking water is available elsewhere in the park.) There are also two swimming pools here, and a play pool for younger children. (more…)
A Visit to Dominica continue… September 1, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Africa, Dominican Republic, London, Restaurant, Tour , 6commentsSome way below the garden a man stood quietly washing himself in the hot water from the spring; it was channelled down there in a homemade aqueduct of halved bamboo stalks resting on forked twigs. ‘For every improvement to the guest-house, I make something for the local people,’ Anne said. ‘It’s their island.’
I wanted to see the rainforest I’d read about, a place where vast trunks rise up like the pillars of a gloomy cathedral, where lianas hang down, where bright parrots chatter in the sunlight of the tree canopy. (more…)
A Visit to Dominica September 1, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Caribbean, Hotels, Rail Pass, Restaurant, Sightseeing, Tickets, Tour, Trails, Trip , 7commentsA strange thing happened this year. A man I’d met only twice, a bit of a loner, invited me to go with him to the West Indies. I fancied him so I said yes.
I knew of Dominica only as the birthplace of Jean Rhys, a writer I deeply admire. Now when I read about the island I discovered that it is volcanic and mountainous and is the last refuge of the Carib Indians, the descendants of proud cannibals who starved to death rather than accept the fate of slavery. It is one of the wilder places on earth and contains rainforest, and boa constrictors. (more…)
To the Middle of Nowhere August 26, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Accommodation, Airlines, Destination, Hotels, Moscow, Restaurant, Round The World, Tickets , 5commentsThe train from the Back of Beyond is about to arrive at the Middle of Nowhere. A week out of Moscow across Siberia and five time zones later you somehow land up in landlocked Mongolia.
Galloping horses, endless deserts and grassland steppes. People with faces like unworked mahogany stand around in their tunic-like costume and ill-fitting boots with turned up toes. All are heavily wrapped against searing Siberian of Genghis Khan, Marco Polo and winds which bear `living’ Buddhas. (more…)
Gypsy Serenade August 26, 2008
Posted by dodo in : England, Germany, Hotels, Restaurant , 5commentsBy the time the train arrived in Madrid the Arabs had stolen my coat. I had not been long in the restaurant car: ten minutes, the length of a cognac. I was coming south from England; they were returning home from a factory in Germany.
On the way to the hotel I stopped the taxi to have a drink in a bar. Outside it was winter and raining. He was standing inside, an old brown overcoat and a white shirt buttoned without a tie, around forty. One of his sons was dancing in worn-out boots, the other singing for him, to the clapping of hands without a guitar. They looked about ten, with long hair, both so brown and handsome I could have hugged them; (more…)
European Costume Flip-flops, Women and Socks August 22, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Europe, Hotels, Japan, London, Rail Pass, Restaurant, Tickets, Tokyo, Tour, Trip , 5commentsOnce Europeans had become accustomed to flip-flops, it wasn’t all that difficult to get used to mitten- shaped socks, each holding the big toe in its own little pocket and letting the other four doss down together. But the very first visitors to Japan assumed, from the local socks, that the Japanese had only two toes. And the Japanese, on the basis of the visitors’ socks, thought that Europeans had none. (more…)
France World Heritage Chartres Cathedral part 3 August 11, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Air Tickets, Europe, Hotels, Jerusalem, Library, Museum, Oceanarium, Rail Pass, Restaurant, Sightseeing, Tickets, Tour , 7commentsIt was called ‘La Lieue’, The League, although the length of its path isconsiderably shorter than a league (6,850 feet/ 2,088m) at approximately 450 feet (140m). It is believed that the Christian usage of such designs was as penance paths, and there are hints in names for Christian labyrinths that suggest their perambulation could be used in lieu of a physical pilgrimage to Jerusalem. But they are also cosmographic images, and this is indicated by the Chartres design. (more…)
Egypt Ancient Thebes & its Necropolis continue… August 3, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Accommodation, Egypt, Flight Schedule, Memorial, Museum, Restaurant, The Nile, Tour, Trip , 6commentsHawkins crossed the Nile to the necropolis. This complex of mortuary temples and tombs hewn out of the living rock served many periods of ancient Egypt and covers a large area. The whole landscape is dominated by a remarkably regular pyramidical mountain. Atop it are the remains of a prehistoric mound, predating dynastic Egypt. It is difficult for a geomantic researcher not to consider that the shape of this peak was an important factor determining the Egyptians’ initial choice of this area as a major necropolis. (more…)
A Slice of Big Apple August 2, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Accommodation, Cars, Destination, Hotels, Italy, Motel, New York, Restaurant, Travel Clinic, Travelling Bag , 6commentsSix gritty months of fumbling with biros and over-read text books in a level tedium were wiped out. Wiped out by a five-hour flight to a city where riding the subway is an act of hedonism, and where the pollution on the streets works on the brain like speed, driving people scrambling to the summits of New York City’s towers of granite and power. (more…)
The Sky Burial July 29, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Destination, Library, Memorial, Museum, Restaurant, Tour , 6commentsSix AM. I wake before the alarm, filled with apprehension. I had resisted attending the sky burial. However, I know that experiencing such a unique, ancient ritual is the essence of travelling. If I avoid it, I might as well be on a tourist bus, shielded from Tibet and from myself.
Pascal, Doune and I begin the hour-long walk out of L’hassa. We pick our way through a rubbish dump and climb to the burial site, a stubbly patch on top of a rocky hill, surrounded by desolate bare mountains, looking like wrinkled old elephants’ hide. Five Tibetan men and a boy of about ten, dressed in worn jackets and trousers, are seated around a fire, drinking tea, talking and laughing. (more…)
Boating in Eire Dolmens and Blarney, feeling of plunging Water, eXhilaration Adventure July 25, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Aquarium, Art Gallery, Coliseum, Dolphinarium, Hotels, Motel, Museum, Oceanarium, Planetarium, Restaurant , 6commentsIt was a bright, clear spring morning when the boat docked in Rosslare and I disembarked in Eire.
Finding the roads almost traffic free, I decided to push on as quickly as possible towards the harsh and romantic west coast.
I was making good time when my eye was caught by a small, wooden sign, on which was written, “Harristown Dolmen“. I pulled up opposite, wound down the window and stared. At this point I might as well confess to being what is called in the trade a “megalithomaniac”. Any stone, no matter how small, if it has the tag “megalithic”, then I’m hooked. (more…)
Aboard the Trans—Siberian Express July 25, 2008
Posted by dodo in : China, Embassy, England, Moscow, Rail Pass, Restaurant, Russia, Sightseeing, Tickets, Tour, Trails, Travelling Bag, Trip , 5commentsShe started sobbing three hours before the border. The conductress tried to console her with a glass of sweet, strong tea but without much success. She remained in the long druggeted corridor, a crumpled figure in a pink dressing gown watching the forests spinning madly by. The tankard holding the glass depicted a Slavic swordsman defending a child and she held it tight as a keepsake.
It certainly was a crying matter. The birch forests of Siberia, so upright, so elegant in autumn, had been broken by this winter campaign. Brought into perfect arcs by wind and snow, the younger birches littered the track-side like ribs and tusks while the old and brittle, unable to bow before the onslaught, rose into the air like splintered spines. (more…)
River Journey up the Zaire July 23, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Accommodation, Aquarium, Art Gallery, Canada, Coliseum, Dolphinarium, Hotels, Motel, Museum, Oceanarium, Planetarium, Restaurant, Trip , 6comments“Into the eighth day and I really feel I’ve had enough. I’d like to be transported to a bathroom in the Ritz and then to a dry Martini in the bar.”
Eighth day, Zaire River. We often lost each other on the seven barges being pushed a thousand miles up the Zaire River, once Conrad’s Congo.
I found my son Joseph, aged seven, in one of the five bars with Sammy, a young soldier. to-dot puzzle. Sammy was concentrating on Joseph’s dot-to-dot puzzle.
“He’s very good at them,” said Joseph. “He never misses a dot.” “Where’s Daddy?”
“Gone for a pee at the back.”
It was all right for men, they could go over the side. Women had to cope with the dark, smelly “cabinets” and first invite the rats to leave through the crumbling rusty holes. These were the boats left at the Belgian Congo’s independence. (more…)
The EXhilaration Adventure, real Hiking Mountain Trail, Kebnekaise Mountain Station continue… July 18, 2008
Posted by dodo in : Air Tickets, Beach Resorts, Cars, Flight Schedule, Hostels, Hotels, Lodges, Motel, Restaurant, Sweden, Switzerland, Wellington , 5commentsIt was soon clear that the man had no idea what he was doing. He shouldn’t have been in the mountains. I asked him where his gear was. “Over there,” he said, pointing to the corner of the room. There was a tiny rucksack, a summer sleeping bag and a pair of Wellington boots. “Is that all?” I asked.
“Shit man, I didn‘t expect this. I came straight down the path from Abisko. It was beautiful the first two days. Which way did you come?”
“Over the mountains through Lapporten.”
“What was it like up there?”
“Cold and too much snow.”
“Where are you going?” (more…)
