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Not Memsahib July 14, 2008

Posted by dodo in : Accommodation, Air Tickets, Airlines, Beach Resorts, Cars, Destination, Europe, Flight Schedule, Hotels, India, Lodges, London, Motel, Museum, Oceanarium, Planetarium, Rail Pass, Restaurant, Sightseeing, Tickets, Tour, Trails, Trip , 3comments

Every time I heard the word memsahib I wanted to take an ice-pick to the user. I’d gone on the Hindu trail clutching my libertarianism to my bosom, a cosy cocoon from which I could rationalise and contain the INDIAshrieks from the inferno — not that Dante, I’m sure, ever went to Calcutta. Very right-on. Very arm’s-length. But keep your liberal sensibilities Gandhi-pure? Emerge unscathed? Forget it.

Sympathy, empathy, had long since given way to simmering hysteria, cringing shame and a seething, at times uncontrollable rage which was generalised in its target but oh so localised in its pain. It wasn’t even a consolingly righteous anger at the pulverising poverty, the callousness of caste or the stalinisation of women — more a deep-seated disgust and hatred welling up from deep down and spewing out over all humanity, most of all myself . . . Well, OK, you try and make sense of the matchstick people of Madhya Pradesh, the execrable excrement of Bombay and Dehli, the obscene opulence of Jaipur jewellers, the blinding, vivid hues of Rajasthani women’s skirts — and all of it sinking in one great ubiquitous quicksand of suffocating, strangulating bureaucracy. (more…)

Hindu Trail Clutching my Libertarianism to my Bosom, Not Memsahib July 9, 2008

Posted by dodo in : Europe, India, London, Rail Pass, Sightseeing, Tickets, Tour, Trails, Travelling Bag, Trip , 3comments

Every time I heard the word memsahib I wanted to take an ice-pick to the user. I’d gone on the Hindu trail clutching my libertarianism to my bosom, a cosy cocoon from which I could rationalise and contain the shrieks from the inferno — not that Dante, I’m sure, ever went to Calcutta. Very right-on. Very arm’s-length. But keep your liberal sensibilities Gandhi-pure? Emerge unscathed? Forget it.

Sympathy, empathy, had long since given way to simmering hysteria, cringing shame and a seething, at times uncontrollable rage which was generalised in its target but oh so localised in its pain. It wasn’t even a consolingly righteous anger at the pulverising poverty, the callousness of caste or the stalinisation of women — more a deep-seated disgust and hatred welling up from deep down and spewing out over all humanity, most of all myself . . . Well, OK, you try and make sense of the matchstick people of Madhya Pradesh, the execrable excrement of Bombay and Dehli, the obscene opulence of Jaipur jewellers, the blinding, vivid hues of Rajasthani women’s skirts — and all of it sinking in one great ubiquitous quicksand of suffocating, strangulating bureaucracy. (more…)

The Dawn of Moden Archaeology in Egypt continue… April 5, 2008

Posted by dodo in : Egypt, Embassy, Europe, France, Museum, Paris, USA , add a comment

Even the Rosetta Stone did not automatically solve the problem. Scholars assumed correctly that the three forms of writing contained the same text, but this was not enough to decipher the Egyptian language in detail. It was here that the figure of Champollion emerged in all his greatness.

Born in France in 1790, Champollion, even as a child, dreamt of deciphering the hieroglyphic signs. He began to study assiduously in order to learn all he could about ancient Egypt and Coptic Egypt. By the time he was twenty-one, Champollion was already a professor at the University of Grenoble and when copies of the Rosetta Stone inscriptions appeared in France, he was among the many scholars who examined them. Although various other European scholars made contributions — particularly the English physician, Thomas Young — it was Champollion who persisted, and after years of indefatigable work, he was able in 1822 to announce the decipherment of the tablet as well as a system for reading hieroglyphic script. (more…)

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